We weren't the NATO soldiers or journalists, just 7 crazy and happy freaks that dare to travel from Kabul to Kandahar alone. No one stopped us, shoot at us or hate us in the so-called world most dangerous place. This will be my best adventure and best memory to Afghanistan forever.
I want to tell people about thing that sometime you heard wasn't true as you see it, Afghanistan is not that place you imagined about. Maybe you won't believe my story (also I'm a bad teller!) but I would like to share it anyway, I'm proud of it
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Afghanistan with burning temp and dangerous did not stop my adventure to Kandahar. After huge happy and noisy marriage party of Viktor 'Ted' Sidorov and his lady Elvira in Novosibirsk, they wanted a great honeymoon to remember forever. So Ted asked if they can follow me to Afghan for 8 days travel. We took a midnight flight to Kabul right away. Then we went to meet 4 other group members.
Emad was an old but strong former mujahideen that knows all the safest ways in southern Afghan, also he good with repairing cars and handle weapons; Dani was from a tribe in Kandahar and a friendly doctor. 'Abdul' Antony, aid worker of a Canadian compound around Gardez, know almost every local languages. Finally 'Hack' Jordan, former RCMP police who volunteered to teaching in Kabul. We acted almost the same as guerrilla, and honestly I was more affair of NATO troops than the militants or Taliban.
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= Day 1: Our transportation were pickup-trucks and mountain bicycles! At 5 AM Ted, Abdul, Emad and Sec (me) started to bike from West Kabul. 457 km totally, we stopped every 70 km for rest. The thing was our trip not happen on main road, b/c we wanted to avoid any army convoy and hostile zones. Thanks for Emad and Abdul, they knew all the local roads and shortcuts to bypass the main roads easily. The problem was we need few guys that good with using guns because we carried a TT30 pistol and an AK 74u for defense. So for the truck group they carried pistol and bikers we had the smg, which I carried it. We dressed like local civilian, if the bikers entered pretty hostile zone, the leader, either Abdul or Ted will wear tourist shirts have Afghan n Canada flag on it. For the whole trip I only had to pull out the gun twice. Other than that, there are welcome and friendly welcome from towns to villages or local militants or tribes.
= Day 2: we bikers entered outskirt Gajoy for extra water, from now on we are on our own b/c the trucks were ahead of us. So we added the rest distance from 70 to 90 km. I took many beautiful scenes during the biking. Rested about 2 hr the continue on. We could hear NATO artillery strikes about 6 km near us. With light transportation, Emad made us travel through forests, high hills and even mountains. Always traveled in silence, hiding from convoys or wild animals. Reached a village near Daman at 4 PM, after the talking to local tribal leader and militants, they let us rest in the village and meet the truck group.
= Day 3: I woke the group early than the planned time, we started out at 3:50 AM. After hearing some unpleasant news from the local people that outskirt Kandahar to the east were under heavily strikes, Emad turned us around and went to the north side then enter a village in the NW of Kandahar about 4 km. Thanks god for Hack's paperwork and Dani's local contacts, we entered the city without shits watching over us. It was 8 PM.
= Day 4: Army kept Abdul papers and some of our too, we felt that they are controlling us. Based Emad's opinions, we could be considered as spy. So the group communicated through walkie talkies, lived in Dani's house to avoid contact. Only Ted and his wife didn't know local languages so Abdul stayed with Elvira while Ted with me. More than half of us were from army or war so we knew how the situations will happen. We threw away our current phones (bought them in Kabul) and re-buy new one in black market.
= Day 5: Dani, Ted and I traveled to the south to visit Faisal's family. Faisal was once my comrade in afghan war and killed after that. We went about 50 km to a small farm where Faisal's uncle lived, his only known family member. Ibrahim, a non-Taliban militant that fought bravely during Soviet-Afghan war and the present, Afghan war. He welcomed us with friendly and offer us to stay overnight. Then at that night Ibrahim told us his war stories, he was a brave sniper with his old SKS. We prayed for Faisal's peace and for the end of the war, together, no thinking about how our religions were different.
= Day 6: After days of fun in Kandahar, finally Ted wanted to go back to Kabul. We said goodbye to Dani's family and all headed out at 10 AM on the main road then the bikers went on small roads. Abdul wanted the rest distance become 50 km b/c on the way we will have to go through many extreme hostile battles. The truck group followed a NATO convoy to Kabul so we bikers on our own.
= Day 7: A huge chain of explosion woke all of us while we rested near the edge of a mountain. Seemed like NATO forces were striking the whole area around us. Emad knew exactly the Taliban won't go through some small roads that lead around the area about 120 km. If we reach outskirt Kabul in time, could avoid the counter strike of Taliban. Yet I only fired the gun a couple time to warn only. We biked non stop from Pana to Kabul with many fear of the war.
= Day 8: Finally the group saw Kabul's city lights at 2 AM. We held up by the NATO forces followed with many questions. Ted and his wife were happily left Kabul back to Russia while I said goodbye to rest of the group. I survived the war again, but in different way. Maybe we were extremely crazy, every one of us enjoyed something that the NATO or Taliban won't put their eyes on the beauty inside the land that they are fighting.
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After all, I'm pretty proud of this trip, proud of our craziness and courage. I'm in Budapest now, heading to Germany at the 10th and hoping I won't have to ride any bike again...